Trip to Vancouver Island (2008)

The Road Glide and Sportster, packed and ready to go.

For this trip we planned to ride to Vancouver Island. Gladys had been there once; myself never. Having heard so many reports about the great roads there, we had been wanting to make this ride for some time. The plan is to get to to the coast, near the city of Vancouver, head up the Sunshine Coast and then take a ferry to the island.

We left Edmonton on Hwy 16 and, once in British Columbia, took Hwy 5 to Little Fort. Once at Little Fort, we turned west on Hwy 24 until we found the the turn-off to the Green Lake Provincial Park, where we planned to set up camp for the first night.

It had been a very hot day, so arriving at the Green Lake campground around 7:00 in the afternoon, as the temperatures began to cool, was perfect. We managed to nab the last campsite available. No wood was available because the campground manager (who drove a truck load around to sell) wanted to call it a day. A fellow camper came through for us though - seeing that we needed a fire to do our cooking. Saying he was leaving the next morning and had too much anyway, he wouldn't accept money for the wood. That was nice of him.

The steaks and fixin's we cooked on the campfire grill that night made for a good way to wind up the day. Oh, and the beer wasn't bad either.

On the way to Little Fort

Along the short of Green Lake

The next day was a scorcher as well. The bike motors belching heat, we found a shady spot in Squamish to rest and rehydrate a bit.

It was a good thing we rested because, immediately after, we found ourselves in an incredible traffic jam, trying to cover the last stretch of highway to the coast. This resulted in our reaching the ferry at Horseshoe Bay quite late - so late that the ferry we took was the last one for the day.

By the time we crossed the bay it was pitch dark and a heavy rain had begun. With the glare of on-coming traffic, this made it a challenge to navigate our way into Langdale, looking for a motel. So we took the first one with a "Vacancy" sign. Nope, we weren't going to set up a tent this night!

Fairly late, arriving at the Horseshoe Bay Ferry

Waking to light rain the next morning, we began our ride up what is known as the Sunshine Coast, to Powell River. The scenery was beautiful and the roads windy. Maybe a little scary for motorhomes, but perfect for motorcycles. To get to Powell River we had to take another ferry at Sechel. The wait there was about an hour, but it gave us an opportunity to chat with some other bikers in the staging area. Often local to the region, such people frequently have helpful information to impart.


The ferry crossing at Sechel.

Once in Powell River, we prepared to take one more ferry - the one that would get us to Vancouver Island. While waiting, I had a chance to talk to a biker who was familiar with the island. He recommended that we ride up to Campbell River and take the Gold River highway to the west coast of the island. According to him that road is the best one on the island for motorcycles - much of like the road to Toffino Bay, but with a better road surface and very little traffic.

Once we arrived at Comox, we headed north to a provincial campground called "Miracle Beach", set up the tent and called it a day. The campsite was so nice we decided to book it for two nights.

The next morning we followed the advice I had received in Powell River and headed north to Campbell River. We were not disappointed in that Gold River highway! Terrific riding. We were told by the locals to expect many black bear on that route but, for some reason, we didn't see a single one.


Taking a few stops along the Gold River Highway, near Campbell River

Stopping along the coast, on the way back to camp - weather's getting cold.

Near the end of the day we returned to our campsite at Miracle Beach with steaks and beer for the evening. The weather was threatening to turn real ugly, so we hurriedly built a fire (this is where a Native wife comes in handy, by the way) and got the cooking done. A heavy rain began falling just as we were done, so we ducked into the vestibule area of our tent and ate our meals there.

This new tent of ours is a real improvement over the old one we had used for years. Marketed by Harley-Davidson, it's pretty much ideal for packing on a bike and sets up quickly. The vestibule portion can be added on for additional protected space when needed. The rain came down like being dumped from buckets all night long, yet nothing got through to us or our gear.


Our campsite and new tent

Gladys' bike, nicely set up to carry a load.	On Miracle Beach, looking across to the mainland.

It was time to move on and see parts of Vancouver Island further south, so we decided on Port Alberni as our next overnight destination. We figured that would be better than Toffino Bay, where prices are higher and vacancy rates lower. Based in Port Alberni we will be nicely positioned for the next day's ride to Toffino on the twisty road we've heard so many bikers praise.


Our motel room in Port Alberni

Port Alberni, in our opinion, is a real gem. Great community spirit, friendly people, great places to eat (especially if you like fresh sea food) and a rich, cultural life. We decided to extend our stay to 2 nights as a result.

Taking an evening ride to the dock area we had a chance to socialize as a group of musicians provided entertainment with rip-roaring, sea-faring songs. We were also told about the past history of the town; how a good portion was wiped out by a tidal wave, many years ago. A free outdoor movie was being shown in the park near one of the town's schools that evening as well. Lots of things to do.


The 'port' in Port Alberni - surrounded by portside restaurants and knick-knack shops.

We awoke the next morning to the comforts of a motel room for the first time this trip, eager to take the scenic ride to Toffino Bay. It was an interesting and challenging road - narrow with very tight turns, rough patches and large truck traffic. The road to Gold River had been better riding but Toffino itself was a far more interesting destination.

Sort of a hippy town, Toffino Bay is dominated by surfers and new age folks from all over the world. On the way out, we stopped at a beach renowned for surfing. Quite a sight. Sure don't see waves like that in Alberta!


On the way to Toffino Bay

On a beach perfect for surfing, near Toffino. Yeah, we didn't quite fit in.

After our stop at the beach, we visited a World Heritage Site designated as a rain forest. Wooden trails had been built through the area and marked with informative signs, so we spent an hour or so walking around. Our heavy riding clothes weren't ideal for an impromptu hike, but seeing the variety, size and unique character of plants growing there made it worthwhile.


Wrap yer arms around this baby!

Wooden paths through the rain forest. The one I'm on is built on a fallen log.

After our last night in Port Alberni we set off in the direction of mainland again. We would try to make it to Hope in one day.

At around this time I finally had to admit my rear tire wasn't going to make it the entire trip; not quite enough tread left. Better change it out now, instead of risking a failure rounding a curve. So I called a few dealerships in the area, to see who can handle this on short notice. It is a normal rule for dealerships to replace tires the same day - especially for travellers.

The Fred Deeley shop in Vancouver said they could change the tire, but wouldn't guarantee doing it the same day. Ugh. That might mean an expensive night's stay in Vancouver. But, what can a guy do?

In reaction to Deeley's non-committal response, I request they let me borrow a bike lift. I'll pull the wheel off myself in their parking lot, saving their mechanics time (and myself money). I've done that on the road before... click here for details

They're not going for that. "We're not some little back alley dealership, you know" they say. Yeah, rub it in. It might be nice if more of you were.

Arriving in Horseshoe Bay from Vancouver Island.

Hoping we'll make good time getting to the dealership, we ride from Port Alberni to Departure Bay. Perfect timing, we ride straight onto the ferry without waiting (bikes go on first, while people in cars wait for hours sometimes). Soon we're in Vancouver and roll into Deeley around 3:30. I talk to the service guy and he waves me straight in to get the work done.

An hour and a half later we're ready to hit the road again with a new tire. I guess it's one thing getting something promised over the phone; quite another when you're right there, talking to the service guy. It probably doesn't hurt to call ahead and give them a head's up that you're coming anyway though.

Gladys and I can now proceed to our destination for the night: A town called Hope. Hope is right, as this will be a bit of a long day, but the traffic's flowing nicely and we get there in time to grab a campsite.

Arriving to set up camp in Hope, late in the day.

Leaving Hope the next day, we set our sights in the direction of Grand Forks.

On the way, we stopped for gas near Kettle Falls and noticed a simple, hand-made sign indicating there's a Pow-wow being held nearby. Gladys talked to someone in the tribe and he gave her directions on how to get there. Some riding through back roads ensued and, eventually, we found the Pow-wow site.

The dance and dress we saw was interesting. Gladys participated in the public portion of the competition and, later, we filled our stomachs on home-made bannock, smothered with butter and jam. This day coincided with our 33rd wedding anniversary, so the event helped make it special.

Attending a Pow-wow near Kettle Falls.