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This page describes a problem I experienced the second time I removed
the rear wheel to change the tire on my '07 Street Bob: Axle is stuck! Again!
The first time this happened, I wound up pounding the axle out, using a
large hammer and a brass drift; that's how stuck it was. Thinking this
problem might plague others besides myself, I put together a Web page,
describing the process. That page can be seen
here.
When I finally got the axle out the first time, I emory-clothed it and the
inside of the hub and applied a non-copper, anti-seize lubricant to it.
Thinking that the axle probably hadn't been lubricated properly at
the factory, I assumed I had the problem fixed for good now.
But I guess I didn't, so here we go again. The difference is that I am using
a different approach. I didn't like pounding the axle out the first time
(even though a soft, brass drift was used). As someone suggested to me, that
could be a bit hard on the bearings. So why do it if you can
avoid it, right?
That's why, this time, I went looking around for a puller. For a tad under
$40.00 I got the biggest one with the longest travel I could find because,
the first time I removed this axle, it was tight all the way through. The
pictures below show what I used.
While I was at it, I thought I'd include a few additional photos that show
some of the setup I use for removing the rear wheel and provide a record
for anyone who gets confused (as I find myself at times) over things
like, "Which side does which spacer go on when I put things back together?"
Foot Note: Interestingly enough, after removing the axle, I put it back in
(without applying new anti-seize) and it came out quite easily! Go figure...
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Placement of jack far enough forward to give the rear wheel room to roll ahead once axle is off (so belt can be removed).
You might want to remove the exhaust pipe before doing this, so access to support bar bolts is not blocked.
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This picture shows the 8" 2-Jaw Gear Puller set up to push the axle. It has enough travel to push the axle entirely through.
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This photo shows the axle exiting from the right side. Didn't have to use that big hammer laying there this time!
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With axle out, brake pads removed, the caliper tapped off its mount and secured, this shows the right spacer removed.
Contrary to what the service manual says, you don't really have to take the brake hose off the caliper to get it out of the way.
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This photo shows belt and left side spacer removed. This would be difficult to get out if the rear caliper were not off already.
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Rear wheel off and bike secured until new rubber is put on rim. Now is a good time to inspect the belt for damage and wear.
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This page describes a problem I experienced the second time I removed
the rear wheel to change the tire on my '07 Street Bob: Axle is stuck! Again!
The first time this happened, I wound up pounding the axle out, using a
large hammer and a brass drift; that's how stuck it was. Thinking this
problem might plague others besides myself, I put together a Web page,
describing the process. That page can be seen
here.
When I finally got the axle out the first time, I emory-clothed it and the
inside of the hub and applied a non-copper, anti-seize lubricant to it.
Thinking that the axle probably hadn't been lubricated properly at
the factory, I assumed I had the problem fixed for good now.
But I guess I didn't, so here we go again. The difference is that I am using
a different approach. I didn't like pounding the axle out the first time
(even though a soft, brass drift was used). As someone suggested to me, that
could be a bit hard on the bearings. So why do it if you can
avoid it, right?
That's why, this time, I went looking around for a puller. For a tad under
$40.00 I got the biggest one with the longest travel I could find because,
the first time I removed this axle, it was tight all the way through. The
pictures below show what I used.
While I was at it, I thought I'd include a few additional photos that show
some of the setup I use for removing the rear wheel and provide a record
for anyone who gets confused (as I find myself at times) over things
like, "Which side does which spacer go on when I put things back together?"
Foot Note: Interestingly enough, after removing the axle, I put it back in
(without applying new anti-seize) and it came out quite easily! Go figure...
|
|
Placement of jack far enough forward to give the rear wheel room to roll ahead once axle is off (so belt can be removed).
You might want to remove the exhaust pipe before doing this, so access to support bar bolts is not blocked.
|
This picture shows the 8" 2-Jaw Gear Puller set up to push the axle. It has enough travel to push the axle entirely through.
|
This photo shows the axle exiting from the right side. Didn't have to use that big hammer laying there this time!
|
With axle out, brake pads removed, the caliper tapped off its mount and secured, this shows the right spacer removed.
Contrary to what the service manual says, you don't really have to take the brake hose off the caliper to get it out of the way.
|
This photo shows belt and left side spacer removed. This would be difficult to get out if the rear caliper were not off already.
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Rear wheel off and bike secured until new rubber is put on rim. Now is a good time to inspect the belt for damage and wear.
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