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Wednesday, February 22, 2012 ..:: Technical » Repair it Yourself » Tranny Sprocket-Jammer Tool ::.. Register  Login



If you need to remove and re-install the transmission sprocket on a Harley, one of the difficult aspects of the job is keeping the pulley from spinning as you either untighten or tighten that large nut holding the sprocket against the side of the transmission (for more information, see the Transmission Sprocket Repair page on this site which covers, among other things, how to make a large socket for nut involved).

Not having the special locking tool HD sells for this task, I have tried a few methods (one involving a hockey puck), but none were very satisfactory. You have to apply a lot of torque to that nut. The nut itself is thin and any slip-up can result in some costly damage (think of your deep socket smacking the transmission's main shaft).

On account of this, when I had to remove and re-install the tranny sprocket on my '98 Road Glide recently, I tried to come up with a new method. I believe I now have a very good solution in the form of a cheap tool that anyone can make for themselves.

This idea must be mainly credited to my wife Gladys (Nikeeya). I initially attempted using just a piece of wood. When that didn't work, it was she who suggested I add a piece of old belt to it.

There are only 3 things needed to make this tool:
  • A piece of 2x4 at least 6" long
  • 2 nails
  • A discarded piece of a secondary belt from a Harley
The piece of belt might (for some people) present a minor obstacle, but for many of you who have been riding awhile, it's probably not hard to get a hold of one; if you don't have an old belt hanging around somewhere already. All you need is about a 4" strip that has its teeth more-or-less intact (it doesn't have to be perfect). Aren't you glad you don't throw stuff away?

Here's a close-up view of the tool:





The tool - just a piece of drive belt nailed to one side of a triangular piece of wood.

To use the tool, simply jam it into the space between the sprocket and the bike's swingarm; the pointy end either up or down, depending on whether you are tightening or loosening the nut. The piece of belt does not have to be nailed onto the block of wood very securely. As the sprocket attempts to turn, it causes the wedge to be drawn in - which presses the belt harder against the wood's surface; helping prevent the belt from slipping.

Shown below are a couple of pictures, showing the tool in use. If the positioning of the block seems opposite to what you expect, remember that the nut is reverse-thread.


The block positioned for tightening the nut


The block positioned for loosening the nut

The block of wood should be of a size that permits it to fit into the space between the sprocket and the swingarm, while not being small enough to squish between. The size I use (which works on my '98 Road Glide, but may be different in your bike's case) was an equilateral triangular block. The two long sides of the block are 5" and the short side is 3 1/2", as shown in the photo below. The sharp end of the triangle is cut at a 40 degres angle.





An overall view of the work is shown below.



If you need to remove and re-install the transmission sprocket on a Harley, one of the difficult aspects of the job is keeping the pulley from spinning as you either untighten or tighten that large nut holding the sprocket against the side of the transmission (for more information, see the Transmission Sprocket Repair page on this site which covers, among other things, how to make a large socket for nut involved).

Not having the special locking tool HD sells for this task, I have tried a few methods (one involving a hockey puck), but none were very satisfactory. You have to apply a lot of torque to that nut. The nut itself is thin and any slip-up can result in some costly damage (think of your deep socket smacking the transmission's main shaft).

On account of this, when I had to remove and re-install the tranny sprocket on my '98 Road Glide recently, I tried to come up with a new method. I believe I now have a very good solution in the form of a cheap tool that anyone can make for themselves.

This idea must be mainly credited to my wife Gladys (Nikeeya). I initially attempted using just a piece of wood. When that didn't work, it was she who suggested I add a piece of old belt to it.

There are only 3 things needed to make this tool:
  • A piece of 2x4 at least 6" long
  • 2 nails
  • A discarded piece of a secondary belt from a Harley
The piece of belt might (for some people) present a minor obstacle, but for many of you who have been riding awhile, it's probably not hard to get a hold of one; if you don't have an old belt hanging around somewhere already. All you need is about a 4" strip that has its teeth more-or-less intact (it doesn't have to be perfect). Aren't you glad you don't throw stuff away?

Here's a close-up view of the tool:





The tool - just a piece of drive belt nailed to one side of a triangular piece of wood.

To use the tool, simply jam it into the space between the sprocket and the bike's swingarm; the pointy end either up or down, depending on whether you are tightening or loosening the nut. The piece of belt does not have to be nailed onto the block of wood very securely. As the sprocket attempts to turn, it causes the wedge to be drawn in - which presses the belt harder against the wood's surface; helping prevent the belt from slipping.

Shown below are a couple of pictures, showing the tool in use. If the positioning of the block seems opposite to what you expect, remember that the nut is reverse-thread.


The block positioned for tightening the nut


The block positioned for loosening the nut

The block of wood should be of a size that permits it to fit into the space between the sprocket and the swingarm, while not being small enough to squish between. The size I use (which works on my '98 Road Glide, but may be different in your bike's case) was an equilateral triangular block. The two long sides of the block are 5" and the short side is 3 1/2", as shown in the photo below. The sharp end of the triangle is cut at a 40 degres angle.





An overall view of the work is shown below.



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