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Preface
I discovered the need to replace the transmission sprocket on my '98 Road Glide
when, after returning from a short ride in the country, I took off from
a set of lights. As soon as I shifted to second gear I lost power to the rear
wheel and a terrible, grinding noise came from the transmission area.
Coasting to a nearby parking lot, I got off the bike to take a look. Sure
sounded like the tranmission was trashed, but those things generally last forever
on Harleys. But, then again, this bike has about 200,000 kms (124,000 miles) on it...
After calling a buddy with a truck, hauling the bike back to my garage and removing
the inner primary, the cause of the grinding noise became clear: The splines on the
transmission sprocket had been stripped off completely (see first picture below) and
the nut holding the sprocket onto the transmission main shaft had spun off.
How that nut spun off in spite of the locking plate holding it from loosening is
a bit of a mystery to me, but there it is. One thing about this situation that got
me thinking is the fact this bike has had a very annoying squeaking sound emanating
from somewhere for the last couple of years. I could never find the source of the
noise and it got so bad I was wearing ear plugs while travelling. It was a squeak
that would only disappear if I let off on the throttle. If I applied any power to
the rear wheel at all (including just the force needed to maintain a constant
speed), the thing would squeak like crazy.
It could be that this sprocket was culprit causing the noise. Perhaps, after the nut
loosened a few turns, the sprocket was making a left/right movement (up and down
along splines of the shaft). That might explain the splines on the (softer) sprocket
being completely worn off.
If it was the sprocket making that noise, I'll know once I get the bike on the road
again after this repair. If it turns out this was the cause, the fact that it went
on for 2 years before finally breaking is a bit interesting to note.
So the sprocket needs to be replaced - better news than the transmission needing
repairing/replacing, which I originally thought would be required. Fortunately,
the splines on the main shaft and the threads for the sprocket nut were still in
good shape.
What I have done is take digital pictures of the work done and presented it below.
My digital cameral can record audio with each image so I added a little commentary
to each picture. In some cases the audio portion provides information not
mentioned in the photo captions.
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No splines on worn-out sprocket on the left
Near-new sprocket on right.
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Sprocket removed, new x-ring, spacer and seal in place
Apply thin coat of oil to rim of seal before pressing in.
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| Audio Commentary
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Audio Commentary
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Old oil seal, x-ring and spacer.
You may need large pliers to grip, but spacer simply pulls out.
Old oil seal can simply be pried out.
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Mating surfaces oiled, red loctite on
threads, nut ready to be torqued on to 50 ft-lbs.
After 50 ft-lbs is reached, turn another 30 to 45 degrees.
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| Audio Commentary
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Audio Commentary
|
Ready to torque nut, using
notched hockey puck as wedge.
Use a new sprocket nut.
|
The hockey puck wedge - signed by Tony Twist!
(it was the only one I had around at the time)
Notched for sprocket teeth helps prevent slipping/spinning.
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| Audio Commentary
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Audio Commentary
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Torquing nut with puck wedge and
home-made 1 7/8" deep socket
Deep socket made by splitting normal socket and
welding length of pipe in bet
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Nut torqued on and locking plate bolted
in place to keep it from loosening.
Unlike this photo shows, place the belt around rear pulley first.
If not, you'll be having to remove wheel axle later to get belt on.
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|
The custom-made 1 7/8" deep socket used.
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|
Ran into a bit of a problem here because the sprocket nut, once loosened,
had begun to grind against the inside of the inner primary - that shiny ring
around the hole where the bearing and seal go.
As a result, the bearing is stuck in the hole (whacks with hammer won't pop
it out). I'm thinking I might have use a hydraulic press on it and, possibly,
also get the hole machined to return it to its proper size for the new bearing
I plan to put in it.
|
Preface
I discovered the need to replace the transmission sprocket on my '98 Road Glide
when, after returning from a short ride in the country, I took off from
a set of lights. As soon as I shifted to second gear I lost power to the rear
wheel and a terrible, grinding noise came from the transmission area.
Coasting to a nearby parking lot, I got off the bike to take a look. Sure
sounded like the tranmission was trashed, but those things generally last forever
on Harleys. But, then again, this bike has about 200,000 kms (124,000 miles) on it...
After calling a buddy with a truck, hauling the bike back to my garage and removing
the inner primary, the cause of the grinding noise became clear: The splines on the
transmission sprocket had been stripped off completely (see first picture below) and
the nut holding the sprocket onto the transmission main shaft had spun off.
How that nut spun off in spite of the locking plate holding it from loosening is
a bit of a mystery to me, but there it is. One thing about this situation that got
me thinking is the fact this bike has had a very annoying squeaking sound emanating
from somewhere for the last couple of years. I could never find the source of the
noise and it got so bad I was wearing ear plugs while travelling. It was a squeak
that would only disappear if I let off on the throttle. If I applied any power to
the rear wheel at all (including just the force needed to maintain a constant
speed), the thing would squeak like crazy.
It could be that this sprocket was culprit causing the noise. Perhaps, after the nut
loosened a few turns, the sprocket was making a left/right movement (up and down
along splines of the shaft). That might explain the splines on the (softer) sprocket
being completely worn off.
If it was the sprocket making that noise, I'll know once I get the bike on the road
again after this repair. If it turns out this was the cause, the fact that it went
on for 2 years before finally breaking is a bit interesting to note.
So the sprocket needs to be replaced - better news than the transmission needing
repairing/replacing, which I originally thought would be required. Fortunately,
the splines on the main shaft and the threads for the sprocket nut were still in
good shape.
What I have done is take digital pictures of the work done and presented it below.
My digital cameral can record audio with each image so I added a little commentary
to each picture. In some cases the audio portion provides information not
mentioned in the photo captions.
|
|
No splines on worn-out sprocket on the left
Near-new sprocket on right.
|
Sprocket removed, new x-ring, spacer and seal in place
Apply thin coat of oil to rim of seal before pressing in.
|
| Audio Commentary
|
Audio Commentary
|
Old oil seal, x-ring and spacer.
You may need large pliers to grip, but spacer simply pulls out.
Old oil seal can simply be pried out.
|
Mating surfaces oiled, red loctite on
threads, nut ready to be torqued on to 50 ft-lbs.
After 50 ft-lbs is reached, turn another 30 to 45 degrees.
|
| Audio Commentary
|
Audio Commentary
|
Ready to torque nut, using
notched hockey puck as wedge.
Use a new sprocket nut.
|
The hockey puck wedge - signed by Tony Twist!
(it was the only one I had around at the time)
Notched for sprocket teeth helps prevent slipping/spinning.
|
| Audio Commentary
|
Audio Commentary
|
Torquing nut with puck wedge and
home-made 1 7/8" deep socket
Deep socket made by splitting normal socket and
welding length of pipe in bet
|
Nut torqued on and locking plate bolted
in place to keep it from loosening.
Unlike this photo shows, place the belt around rear pulley first.
If not, you'll be having to remove wheel axle later to get belt on.
|
|
The custom-made 1 7/8" deep socket used.
|
|
|
|
Ran into a bit of a problem here because the sprocket nut, once loosened,
had begun to grind against the inside of the inner primary - that shiny ring
around the hole where the bearing and seal go.
As a result, the bearing is stuck in the hole (whacks with hammer won't pop
it out). I'm thinking I might have use a hydraulic press on it and, possibly,
also get the hole machined to return it to its proper size for the new bearing
I plan to put in it.
|
|
|